Harbouring thoughts of a seaside bolthole? Consider Barceloneta.

• For a long time Barceloneta’s glory days were most definitely behind it. The former fishermen’s quarters had been left to decline, although the neighbourhood always remained a favourite for locals out for Sunday lunch by the sea. The 1992 Olympic Games triggered massive renovation along the waterfront, and the area’s new spruced-up look and facilities turned it into one of the city’s favourite playgrounds. Loved by residents and travellers alike, it shows no sign of losing its appeal.
  
  A compact corner
  
  The latticed street layout of the district was originally designed to help the military control the local population, and the narrow streets can lend the area a slightly congested feel. But this is more than compensated for by the open expanse of sea and sand waiting for you past the long, landscaped promenade. Surfers, swimmers, cyclists, skateboarders, roller-bladers, dog walkers and sunbathers all take full advantage of the facilities on offer, and it’s an ideal spot just to stop and watch the world go by. In the evenings, Barceloneta takes on a more up-tempo feel, as the beach’s chiringuitos come alive with DJs and diners seeking top-quality seafood.
  
  Know your neighbours
  
  The population of Barceloneta is a fairly diverse bunch. You’ll see retired Catalan couples and young families mingling with foreigners who’ve been lured there by the laid-back lifestyle and easy access to the beach. The beach itself is normally packed in the summer, as both tourists and locals take advantage of sand and sea on the city’s doorstep. The area takes on quite a different identity in the autumn and winter months, though, when the crowds dwindle and a calmer pace of life takes over.
  
  Shopping options
  
  If you need to stock up the fridge during your stay, your first port of call should be the local market (Mercat de Barceloneta), which dates back to 1884 and has recently been revamped. Alongside the still-squirming fish you’ll find stalls selling fruit, nuts, sweets and the ever-present Serrano ham. For bread and cakes, you’re in luck - being based in Barceloneta means you’ll be close to the Baluard bakery, which is practically a city institution. Otherwise, there are several small supermarkets around, many of which will stay open till late at night.
  
  Getting around
  
  Barceloneta’s not a large area by any city’s standards, so getting around doesn’t tend to be a problem. The closest metro stop is Line 4’s ‘Barceloneta’, which is on Carrer del Doctor Aiguader. Thanks to their grid-like layout, the streets behind the quayside are easy to find your way around. Plenty of local buses pass through the area, while taxis are never in short supply either. Or, of course, you could just blend in with the locals and pick up your skateboard.

• You’ll probably want to waste no time in hitting the beach. This is definitely the main appeal of Barceloneta, but if you fancy stretching your legs a bit, there are other highlights within walking distance.
  
  Nearby sights
  
  Port Vell (the ‘old port’) is right beside Barceloneta, and nowadays is used as a harbour for some very fancy yachts. Right beside it is the Museu d’Historia de Catalunya, which tends to be a hit with kids and adults alike. (The museum is also a good spot to have some lunch, offering an economic set menu in its ‘La Miranda’ top-floor restaurant, together with some brilliant views of the harbour.) Just along from here is the Moll d’Espanya, the broad wharf that will take you to Barcelona’s Aquarium and Maremagnum shopping centre (the only such centre in the city that opens regularly on a Sunday). If you fancy a change of scenery, from sand to turf, you could head up to Ciutadella Park, just north of Barceloneta. With its zoo, boating lake and resident mammoth, it’s a great place to relax.
  
  Eating out
  
  Restaurants in Barceloneta, as you’d probably guess, do a mean turn in fish and seafood dishes. If you’re after some premium paella (with a price tag to match) head to Can Majó, right on the waterfront. A few blocks north is the great-value tapas restaurant La Bombeta, which is famous for its house croquettes and quick-fire service. For a totally different taste, head to the upmarket Indian restaurant Rangoli, which benefits from a prime location down on the Passeig de Joan de Borbó. The place has been garnering some rave reviews, and is praised particularly for its tasting menu (‘menu de degustación’), lamb dishes and decent range of veggie options.
  
  Beers by the beach
  
  Bars-wise, local, traditional haunts tend to dominate. Worth mentioning is Bar Jai Ca, a raucous but sociable place, which serves excellent tapas. It’s a favourite with the locals, so try to get there early if you want a seat. Meanwhile, Italian-run El Filferro is a small but intoxicating space that offers cheap bites along with its house wines. Then there’s Bar Leo, which is run by a formidable Andalucian señora with a penchant for flamenco music. This bar brims with character, and serves up particularly cheap beers. Or, for an entirely different sort of experience, you could take the lift up to the 26th floor of the W Hotel (locally nicknamed ‘the sail’). Sip stylish cocktails in the Eclipse bar against a stunning backdrop of coastal views. Afterwards, you could take a stroll along the promenade to Port Olympic (Vila Olímpica) if you fancy trying out one of the well-known waterfront nightclubs.

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